front s14 suspension swap completed

finally i finished full s14 front suspension setup swap to my s13.
i used s14 tie rods, tie rod ends, 6mm steering spacers, lower control arm, 5lug setup, 280mm 4pot brakes and stock 5x114.3 wheels.
also changed the u-joint and rubber bushing to custom made steel "bushing".
everything is changed, cleaned and ready for alignment.

so now i have about 1.5 degrees of camber, increased track width, more steering angle.

done a lot of small fixes on my car, but main mods are:

S14 vlsd 3.9 gear ratio

mechanical hks oil pressure gauge

poly bushes in steering column

adjusted handbrake pads and ducktapes the ebrake button

did few skids, car handles fine. it took more than 3hours of skids totally and everything held up pretty well.

some problems to be fixed:

front tire rubs body rail on full lock - this will be fixed with S14 arms and lower profile winter tires

strange sound comes from front right suspension, checked everything but could not find the source

lots of s14 parts in the garage

i got all suspension from an european s14:

front lower arms, spindles, full 5lug setup, brakes,

all rear subframe with diff, arms and 5lug. plus all 4 stock s14 wheels.

i am searching for s134 raising solid alloy subframe bushes, so i can raise new subframe to the body as close as i can. then i'll have 20mm wider wheel base on front and rear, more drop with standard arm angle, also more traction at rear wheels because of different rear arm setup.

S14 subframe is wider by 20mm, so i can use stretched standard bushes, or do it properly and build using special made parts. one guy in UK told me that he will have it shortly but apparently i'll have to make it at local machine shop.

few updates

so its been a long time since my car is running, but i had shitload of problems with it.

firstly i had to change fuel lines and fuel tank. funny thing is that only 5th fuel tank was in good condition to use it - all others were worthless.

anyways - new steel fuel lines, along with new brake lines, removed ABS, removed carbon canister, removed hot start solenoid.

fitted greddy boost gauge, and i found out why my fuel pump is not working properly on boost - i'm pushing more than 0.9bar. I often get fuel cut. good thing is that my walbro 255lph is on its way to Lithuania.

and finally my garage was robbed and i lost almost all my performance parts - i had full set of rose jointed suspension arms, big fmic, ver2 shifter, etc etc etc. all toys are lost.

struggling to get my car running - again

well it was busy week but my car is not running again.

i have changed my tension arm bushes to poly ones. they already were changed to something like rubber/poly, but the job was done poorly, rubber inserts had cracks, etc. i wanted to have proper suspension bushed in my car.

i had Z31 tension poly bushes lying around - it is not a straight fit but i managed to make it fit after some modifications. firstly it fits to the tension rod perfectly, but it is too wide (by 1cm) and it does not fit the S13 tension bracket on the body. so poly bushes got lathed by 5mm by each side, so it got sorted.

also i have received used Nardi classic 360mm, 40mm dish steering wheel, but i just realized that it does not fit standard Momo hub. Nardi uses different bolt pattern and i need to use some kind of spacer/adapter to fit it to hub. all adapters are thin and you have to rotate wheel, but then you will have your steering wheel turned a little bit, or your blinkers will not properly because of rotated hub. example pic:

i have though about spacer with required bolt pattern. something like this:

i think its time to visit some custom fabrication companies.

and finally my car is not running because high pressure fuel line has crack because of corrosion. it is somewhere near diff oil cooler. now i'm waiting when i will get decent work place, so i can drop the rear subframe, gas tank, and change fuel and brake lines.

p.s. all pictures are taken from the interwebs, or taken by my friends, because i don't have a camera. i'll try update old posts when i'll get some pics.

getting all the bugs out

after changing the timing belt and CAS i did not set the ignition angle correctly. i did not know what was the position of original cas.

today i struggled with timing gun (strobe lamp) to see what was my timing with current set up.

cas was turned max to the "advanced side", but i could reach 10 degrees BTDC (manual says it has to be 15BTDC). first idea - i put my timing belt wrong (missed a teeth on crank sprocket or something). i removed everything except the timing belt to make sure that the belt is assembled correctly, and after assembling everything back i though it would be good idea to change the CAS - maybe it was working badly. with new CAS i could move as far as 20 degrees btdc, so i set my ignition timing to 15 degrees BTDC.

i wasted more than 5 hours over a f&#ked cam angle sensor, but now my car idles fine, became more responsive on low rpms, no backfires.

and lastly i scored used HKS boost gauge for 16quid over ebay = win.

its running - finally

its been a long time without updates, but i finally got my car running.

no pics of engine maintenance though.

jobs done:

changed cam oil seals, timing belt (Contitech), idler & tensioner (NSK), water pump (GMB). replaced broken CAS, new MANN oil filter and KROON Emperol racing 10w60 oil. cleaned cam covers. put the interior back into the car.

interesting is that originally i found OEM Nissan timing belt, oem water pump, nsk tensioner and idler bearings (nissan uses them as oem). even cam cover gaskets where oem. it seems that nobody did no maintainance inside of the engine (timing belt was changed, according to previous owner).

it got mot and taxed, so now i am using it as a daily driver.

everyone says that it is the most quiet ca18det ever - it makes me a little bit optimistic. i think i will rock the shit out of this engine until i make some stupid inline6 turbo engine swap.

few lame pics of interior assembly: